I recently visited Arima and Gero onsens on consecutive days, after a full week of hot spring bathing in Kyushu. Along with Kusatsu onsen, Arima and Gero onsen have been celebrated as the ‘famous three onsen’ of Japan since Edo times. I had never been to either, and decided it was high time I took a dip in their venerable waters.
A Bit of History
Though no one knows when locals first began capturing the thermal waters of these springs for soaking purposes, Arima Onsen is mentioned in the Chronicles of Japan (Nihon Shoki) as a place visited by Emperor Jomei in the year 631. Gero, deep in the mountains and far from the ancient capitals, wouldn’t be noted for its springs until the early 900s, when Japan’s capital was located in Kyoto, and travel across central Honshu grew more common. In 1587, the great samurai warlord Oda Nobunaga visited Gero, and by the early 1600s, Arima and Gero had been anointed as two of the leading three onsen of Japan.
Town Life
Because Arima is both an overnight destination and an easy day trip from Kobe and Osaka, the vibe is decidedly more festive here than in its mountain valley counterpart. It’s often downright busy in this little hilltop town, where a compact maze of winding streets and crooked stairways, rich in character, invite the visitor to keep exploring, snacking and photographing.
The pace at Gero is decidedly more relaxed, with no need to navigate throngs of tourists. Perhaps not so photogenic as Arima, Gero has its own ambience, offering hand and foot-soaking basins – some very hot – on nearly every corner. In Gero, you will want to carry a hand towel at all times, for drying off after these partial serendipitous dips.
Natural Scenery
When visiting Arima, the great warlord Hideyoshi Toyotomi loved to play go on a stone board in the garden outside Zuihougi Temple. Visit Zuihouji park today, and you will understand why he found it so inspiring. Beautiful in any season, it is said to be amongst Japan’s most exquisite sites for viewing fall colors.
The longish train ride on the Takayama line to the town of Gero follows the sparkling Hida river into the rugged heart of Honshu. Make sure to get a window seat on the train, and a room in Gero with a view of the river. Relaxing in your yukata, watching the white cranes basking in the sun on the river rocks, you will want to extend your visit, and return again in another season.
Food
While onsen towns aren’t usually the best for fine dining, it’s Japan, so the eating options are still plentiful. But I would have to give Gero the advantage in this category; it simply offers more possibilities, with Hida beef being a local favorite. Arima is smaller, with more traditional Japanese tourist food stands; plan to eat where you stay, as outside dining can get booked full on any night of the week. In Gero, you will find plenty of restaurants, but beware of dining out after the weekend rush – many places are shut due to low traffic. My favorite meal in Gero was breakfast at my inn - a lovely traditional feast that included yuba, red miso soup and peach kuzu mochi.
The Waters and Baths
Oh my. Not to be partial, but we have a clear winner here – Gero. Thermal water purveyors in Japan go to great lengths to publish the mineral analyses, and extoll the salubrious effects, of their respective waters. However, what everyone really cares about is that certain thermal waters do miraculous things for the skin, making it softer and visibly younger by years, even decades. Gero’s thermal waters do this magic. This is some high-quality water.
Arima’s hot springs are high in salts, and reddish-brown in color. They’re an absolute joy to soak in, and purportedly very good for epidermal ailments, among other things.
Of course, it’s all up to you to find the best baths, wherever you may choose to go. Along with the food served, you will get what you pay for!
Access and Convenience
Arima is easily and inexpensively reached by rail or bus in just thirty minutes, with both options available right from Shin Kobe Station. Gero can be reached by road, but the preferred approach is on the Takayama Line, from Nagoya or Toyama, with travel times of 1.5 to. 2.5 hours, respectively.
