When I think of Japan I immediately get caught up in the fantasy of traditional food. Whether it’s the elegant feasts in period dramas, slurping ramen under the train tracks or of course the glistening bento of school yard anime, I can’t help but lust for these striking dishes. Fuelled by my desire for the treats I had only ever seen on television, I decided to venture out in search of a traditional Japanese snack.
Located just a five-minute walk from Zoshiki Station is Naniwaya, a local take-out onigiri store. An onigiri is a savoury rice ball, usually filled with a salty or sour delight (such as roe) and wrapped in seaweed. Onigiri have long been considered one of Japan’s top comfort foods and are a classic bento filler. To find Naniwaya, take the east exit from Zoshiki Station, walk through the small arcade and when you reach Daiichi–keihin (the main road) walk straight across. Take the side street facing you, and when you can see the fishmonger’s turn right and look out for the yellow sign on the left hand side.
I was welcomed to Naniwaya by a friendly face and little rows of gleaming onigiri. Being slightly bewildered by the kanji signs I simply requested “Anata no osusume onegaishimasu!” translating to “Your recommendation please!” I was really impressed by the consideration and effort the store owner put into picking my onigiri. I asked for three and he took his time deliberating which best showcased his store's flavours. He dubiously eyed the umeboshi (sour plum) but instead chose a salted salmon, a pickled vegetable, and a furikake (one rolled in seasoning). He deftly wrapped the onigiri in beautiful paper and sent me on my merry way. There was a selection of around 15 different onigiri, but when I visited at around 10 am, some of the most popular had already sold out for breakfast!
Many Tokyo travelers recoil in fear waiting for their food bill, but the trick is knowing where to go. Small local stores, usually with no English, tend to have both the best traditional foods and prices suited for those on a budget. Don’t be shy if your Japanese isn’t up to scratch as pointing and smiling always works a treat. Naniwaya is a perfect example of this as each onigiri cost around ¥150, a great price for a handmade delicacy and service came with a warm smile.
Anyway, let’s get down to the nitty gritty: did it have me salivating and fulfill my schoolgirl fantasy of Japanese food? Plain and simple, yes! The savoury fillings were delicious, rich with soy sauce or salt, and when combined with heavy sticky rice they deadened my carbohydrate cravings. The vegetables had a satisfying crunch and the fish was fresh. My one mistake was quantity; on an empty stomach three was a little too much for breakfast. The heavy rice filled me up, leaving me potbellied and flat on my back. However, I think these are a great snack or meal for an intrepid traveler as they fill you up and keep you brimming with energy for a day of navigating the big city.
