The lure of Japanese cuisine to the western palate can often be stated succinctly and sufficiently with only a single word: Simplicity. The cuisine of Japan is in many ways a mirror of its other pursuits of enjoyment and pleasure. Like the stunningly beautiful and yet simple style of Ikebana known as Shōka, consisting of only three main branches. It is not only the branches that are striking but also the concept of Ma, the empty spaces in between and the experiential element of such simplicity that is so appealing.
Like Ikebana, eating soba noodles can be a simple and profoundly rewarding experience. The concept of Shibui, simplicity devoid of unnecessary elements, is one that seems most applicable when enjoying this uniquely Japanese noodle made from buckwheat flour.
My latest culinary adventure in Niseko, Hokkaido occurred this afternoon on my walk from Hirafu to the outskirts of Kutchan. I arrived at Ichimura Soba in the late afternoon and was welcomed inside and brought into the seating area that had both traditional and modern tables. My server provided an English-language menu which very astutely described each meal and provided instructions on how to eat and enjoy the dish.
I chose Oroshi Soba served cold with tsuyu sauce (dashi, soy sauce, and mirin), grated daikon radish, spring onion, wasabi and crispy bits of tempura. When my meal arrived I was instructed to mix the wasabi in with the noodles and combine the remaining ingredients into a bowl to serve as a dipping sauce. The tempura bits were a nice textual note and the handmade noodles made from local Rankoshi stone-ground buckwheat flour and natural spring water were delicious. Hard to believe that such a wonderful lunch was only ¥700. At the end of the meal I was given soba yu, a pot containing the water in which the noodles were cooked. I was instructed to add the water to the remaining tsuyu sauce creating a delicious broth and a wonderful end to the meal.
Ichimura is open for lunch (11:00 – 15:00) and dinner (18:00 – 20:00) six days a week and closes every Tuesday. Because I ate my lunch later in the afternoon, a number of tables were available, but a reservation is required if you plan to have dinner. It should also be noted that as you would expect, the dinner menu is more expensive and elaborate than the lunch menu and also of note is the outdoor seating overlooking the nearby creek which is available when the weather warms up.
