Kyodo Ryori Goshiki in Matsuyama

There are many attractive places to eat in the centre of Matsuyama, and some of the places have been in business for a great many years. One of these venerable institutions is Kyodo Ryori Goshiki, a restaurant specializing in tai meshi and somen noodles. It stands on Sanbancho Dori behind a facade reminiscent of a traditional old Japanese building.

The first thing you notice when you dive through the noren curtain over the entrance is another large, colourful curtain of somen noodles hanging from the ceiling. There’s also an attractive display of sake and shochu bottles in the waiting area.

The menu at Goshiki changes with the season, and when I went in spring, the offering that caught my eye was the lunch set with ‘Iyo mikan sushi’ and a choice of hot or cold somen noodles for 780 yen. Since it was one of those suddenly hot spring days, I ordered the cold noodles. As I waited for the food to arrive I sat back and enjoyed the decor of bamboo silhouetted in front of the screened windows, and old kitchen utensils decorated with kimono silk.

My meal arrived quickly and it was a visual feast. There was a bowl of somen noodles which come in five colours, with a number of equally colourful bite-sized bonnes bouches. The Iyo mikan sushi contained shrimp, pickled mackerel and eel with their naturally dainty colours, and the little dish of seasonal vegetables included the attractive yellow of fresh bamboo shoot. Each of these dishes tasted as good as it looked. The noodles were thoroughly chilled and refreshing, flavoured with a little ginger and flakes of high quality dried bonito flakes which impart a mildly smoky taste. I’ve never had sushi flavoured with mikan orange before, and I did wonder if it was really a good idea. But the subtle citrus added a welcome extra dimension and depth to the rice and seafood, so I’m looking forward to having it again.

Unfortunately towards the end of my meal, a couple of salarymen arrived and fouled up the air with smoke, which totally spoiled the food and the otherwise pleasant atmosphere. I asked if there was a non-smoking area in this large and spacious restaurant but was told that there isn’t one. That’s too bad, because good food deserves more respect.

Name in Japanese
郷土料理 五志喜 — kyōdo ryōri goshiki — Kyodo Ryori Goshiki