Kazeyanagi is a little restaurant with a big presence. It stands on a corner of Chifunemachi Dori, drawing a lot of attention with its red and yellow plaster exterior, elegant stained glass windows, and the section of rustic earth and tile wall that abuts the street. It’s hard to miss, and it’s a very attractive building in its own right.
The care taken with appearance is reflected inside too. On the first floor is a narrow kitchen counter paved with flagstones and pounded earth. Sunlight filters in through the yellow stained glass. Upstairs there’s a long room with low tables on tatami mats.
I received a very warm welcome when I went in for lunch. The young woman and man behind the counter explained the day’s special and the various options. When they used an unfamiliar name for one of the offerings and I registered confusion, they went into detail.
I ordered the unagi (eel) set lunch for 1,200 yen. The various dishes were gradually assembled on a tray as I looked on. The eel arrived on a bed of rice with a dab of wasabi and a heavy, sweetish soy sauce. I must say, I’ve never had eel so good – it was firm, juicy, flavorsome, and grilled to perfection. Typically, eel in Japan is marinated in sauce which can hide a multitude of sins, but this eel had none to hide, which is no doubt why the sauce came in a separate dish. I later learned that it comes from an eel farm on the storied Shimanto River in neighboring Kochi Prefecture. The eel was accompanied by nimono, a little stew of seasonal vegetables and a dumpling of minced fish and tofu. This too was perfect – a gentle riot of flavors and textures in a small bowl. There was also miso soup with vermicelli noodles, konyaku noodles with a piquant dressing, and subtly vinegared vegetable pickles. Every part of the meal spoke of careful preparation and a sophisticated appreciation of balance.
The lunch menu starts at 800 yen and goes up to 1,800 yen. Kazeyanagi is also open in the evening with a wide menu of reasonably priced izakaya fare.
